As climate continues to change, those in the distilling industry have been up against many a challenge. One would think that Gin, which is reliant on botanicals like juniper berries and coriander, may be having a bit of a tough go as the Earth's temperature is shifting. But, experts have explained that this is more complicated than one thinks.
"Wild plants are very resilient," says Geraldine Kavanagh, full-time forager for Glendalough Distillery. "They are native and many have been growing here happily for thousands of years without any input from humans. They may not always flower or bear fruit at exactly the same time each year, but they will always come when the time is right."
Kavanagh notes that she is lucky to forage in Ireland's Country Wicklow, which is also known as 'The Garden of Ireland.' Because of this, there are many different habitats which help foster a wide range of wild edible plants. She has explained that the area has a very unpredictable weather pattern, which has made it detect any lasting changes in the weather patterns or changes in the botanicals she gathers.
"In many parts of the world, visible changes in temperature and weather are undeniable. But here in Ireland, it's hard to say the same. Every year already feels different -- some years are dry, while others are drenched in rain," she says.
But, it's not the same everywhere. In fact, gin distillers around the world are already feeling the heat and have made adjustments to how, where and even when they get their botanicals.
In New Hampshire, Matt Power, distiller at Tamworth Garden Distilling, says that while he does forage for certain things, he tries to keep taking from nature at a minimal.
"I grew up with with nature and to appreciate nature for what it is, everything from the kind of the diversity of plants to the time scales that they grow on, and also the beauty and structure of them," he says.
Power explains that behind the distillery, there is a garden with classic gin botanicals, like lavender, coriander, and different Artemisia species. He states that they try to grow things that are traditionally farmed and forage the land for the rest, if need be.
"I certainly feel that those are more appropriate ways to go, as far as using things from nature, things that aren't traditionally farmed. But, there is some stuff that you just can't, I would say you can't actually fake it," he says.
Power also says that sometimes having to forage impacts the gin; it clouds the true representation of the area, something that distillers want to showcase in their final product.
"Do you think that because you do have to travel a little bit further, that it's not exactly the correct representation of your terroir? Or is it just 'No, this is where we're based and our terroir is a large area.'," Power inquires.
"The key thing that great gin reflects is a sense of provenance through the use of botanicals from the area close to your distillery. This gives all those who try your gin the unique characteristics from that place," says Harry Keene, Distiller, Silent Pool Gin based in Surrey Hills, England, echoing this sentiment.
Keene notes that instead of wild foraging, Silent Pool works in partnership with local farmers and our beekeeper to maintain the supply of botanicals. He says that climate change has impacted both the botanicals in Silent Pool as well as the bees they use to help pollinate the botanicals. This is why the brand works with local farmers instead of foraging; it allows them to keep an eye on the supply chain as well as quality, as well as make changes in their production schedule.
"Climate change has impacted the growing seasons with excessive rainfall, warming temperatures and lack of rain, challenging the traditional growing cycles," he says. He also notes that the decline in bees has also impacted
"Nearby hives have been most impacted by climate change as they traditionally hibernate between October and end March, and the warmer temperature has confused them from their usual seasonal rhythms," he says, noting that earlier temperature shifts mean the flowers the bees need for nectar are not as available and the bees could starve. This continues to play a role in how the brand sources its botanicals.
If there is wild foraging happening, Kavanagh says it is important to respect the Earth and the area in which you are gathering.
"It is important to forage sustainably," she says. "I cut wild herbs with a scissors as you would cut them in your own garden, so they continue to grow and there is no risk of pulling up the roots of plants by mistake. And, foraging over a large area means you only take a little from any one place."
She also says that having a keen knowledge of where to forage and what plants are safe to eat are also very important.
However, says Kavanagh, while gin production may not be impacted by climate change just yet, she doesn't feel like the industry should be resting on their laurels. Getting prepared and watching what others in the spirits industry are facing in other parts of the world is the best way to start planning for the future.
"As climate change progresses, factors like water temperature, floral growth, and weather patterns could play a role in the future. For now, the environment remains largely unchanged," she says.